Brother CS 80 Manuel d'utilisateur

ENGLISH885-S06XC5247-0211Printed in ChinaS2_BrotherE_coverDIC181pK

———————————————————————————————————————————————————————————————4SEWING BASICS ...

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————94S2_brotherE.book Page 94 Thursday, February 13, 2003 11:03 AM

4 APPENDIXThe various maintenance and troubleshooting procedures are described in this chapter.Stitch Settings ...

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————96Stitch SettingsApplications, stitch lengths and widths and whether the twin need

Stitch Settings 974Joining stitchJPatchwork stitching and decorative stitching4.0(3/16)0.0– 7.0(0– 1/4)1.2(1/16)0.2– 4.0(1/64– 3/16)YesReinforce-me

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————98Buttonhole stitchAHorizontal buttonholes on thin and medium-weight fabrics5.0(3/

Stitch Settings 994Decorative stitchesN For decoration, etc.7.0(1/4)0.0– 7.0(0– 1/4)2.5(3/32)0.2– 4.0(1/64– 3/16)NoReinforce-mentNo NoN For decorat

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————100MaintenanceSimple sewing machine maintenance operations are described below.Cle

Maintenance 10143Turn the balance wheel toward you until the tip of the shuttle hook aligns with the edge of the race shelf.1 Shuttle race2 Shuttle

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————102TroubleshootingIf the machine stops operating correctly, check the following po

Troubleshooting 1034The upper thread breaks.The upper thread was not threaded correctly (for example, the spool is not installed correctly, the spo

5APPENDIX ...95Stitch Settings ...

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————104The fabric is wrinkled.The upper thread was not threaded correctly, or the bobb

Troubleshooting 1054The fabric does not feed.The feed dogs are lowered. Slide the drop feed lever to the left. page 83The stitch is too fine. Lengt

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————106Error messagesIf the start/stop button is pressed before the sewing machine is

Changing the needle stop position 1074Changing the needle stop positionNormally, the sewing machine is set to leave the needle in the fabric when s

APPENDIX ——————————————————————————————————————————————————————————108IndexSymbols+ key ...

Index 1094Ppatchwork stitching ...81piecing ...

6Important Safety InstructionsWhen using this machine, basic safety precautions should always be taken, including the following:Read all instructions

7FOR USERS IN THE UK, EIRE, MALTA AND CYPRUS ONLYIf this machine is fitted with a three-pin non-rewireable BS plug then please read the following.IMPO

8CONGRATULATIONS ON CHOOSING OUR MACHINEYour machine is one of the most advanced computerized household sewing machines. To fully enjoy all the featur

1 GETTING READYThe various preparations required before starting to sew are described in this chapter.Turning the Machine On/Off ...

GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————10Turning the Machine On/OffThis section explains how to turn the sewing machine

Turning the Machine On/Off 111Turning on the machine1Make sure that the sewing machine is turned off (the main power switch is set to “O”), and th

GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————12Winding/Installing the BobbinThis section describes how to wind the thread ont

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 1315Slide the bobbin winder shaft to the right.6Place the spool of thread for the bobbin onto the bobbin thread spoo

Cover AEnclosed AccessoriesAfter opening the box, check that the following accessories are enclosed. If any item is missing or damaged, contact your r

GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————14Memo● When using thread that winds off quickly, such as transparent nylon thre

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 151aSlide the sewing speed controller to the right (so that the speed will be fast).1 Sewing speed controllerbPress

GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————16Installing the bobbinInstall the bobbin wound with thread.Memo● The order that

Winding/Installing the Bobbin 1717Reattach the bobbin cover.Insert the tab in the lower-left corner of the bobbin cover, and then lightly press do

GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————18Upper ThreadingIn this section, the procedures for positioning the spool for t

Upper Threading 191Loading the spool into the thread cassetteLoad the spool of thread into the enclosed thread cassette to prepare the upper threa

GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————203Push the thread cassette eject lever on the left side of the machine toward t

Upper Threading 2118While holding the end of the thread with your right hand and the thread cassette with your left hand, close the cover.9Pass th

GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————22cPull the thread under the disc at the front in the lower-left corner and arou

Upper Threading 231• If the needle is not raised to the correct position, the needle cannot be threaded with the needle threader. Be sure to check

Cover BNames of Machine Parts and Their FunctionsThe names of the various parts of the sewing machine and their functions are described below. Before

GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————245Close the thread cassette compartment cover.X Now that the upper threading an

Upper Threading 2514Thread the thread cassette with the thread from the spool on the extra spool pin.• For more details, refer to “ Loading the sp

GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————26Using the twin needleUsing the twin needle, you can sew two parallel lines of

Upper Threading 2715Insert the thread cassette (with the extra spool pin attached) into the thread cassette compartment.• For more details, refer

GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————28aStart sewing.• For details on starting to sew, refer to “ Starting to sew” (

Upper Threading 291Pulling up the bobbin threadWhen making gathers or before free-motion quilting, first pull up the bobbin thread as described be

GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————30Replacing the NeedleThis section provides information on sewing machine needle

Replacing the Needle 311Memo● The smaller the thread number, the thicker the thread, and the larger the needle number, the thicker the needle.● Us

GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————32Replacing the needleReplace the needle as described below. Use the screwdriver

Replacing the Needle 3316While holding the needle with your left hand, use the screwdriver to tighten the needle clamp screw.Install the twin need

———————————————————————————————————————— Names of Machine Parts and Their FunctionsCover CNeedle and presser foot section1 Buttonhole leverLower the b

GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————344Lower the needle-changing tool.X The needle can be removed from the needle ba

Replacing the Presser Foot 351Replacing the Presser FootThe presser foot presses down on the fabric.Presser foot precautionsBe sure to observe the

GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————364Press the black button at the back of the presser foot holder.1 Black button

Replacing the Presser Foot 371Removing the presser foot holderRemove the presser foot holder when cleaning the sewing machine or when installing a

GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————38Using the optional walking footWith the walking foot, both pieces of fabric ar

Replacing the Presser Foot 3913Raise the presser foot lever.1 Presser foot leverX The presser foot is raised.4With a screwdriver, loosen the press

GETTING READY ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————40Sewing Cylindrical PiecesFree-arm sewing makes sewing cylindrical pieces easy.

2 SEWING BASICSThe necessary preparations for sewing are described in this chapter.Sewing ...

SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————42SewingBasic sewing operations are described below.Before operating the sewing

Sewing 432General sewing procedureFollow the basic procedures below to sew.1Turn on the machine.Turn on the sewing machine.For details on turning o

Cover DOperation buttonsThe operation buttons help you to easily perform various basic sewing machine operations.1 Thread cassette indicatorThe indica

SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————44Positioning the fabricBe sure that the fabric pieces are sewn in the correct

Sewing 452Starting to sewOnce you are ready to start sewing, you can start the sewing machine. The sewing speed can be adjusted using either the op

SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————463Turn on the sewing machine.4Slide the sewing speed controller to the left or

Sewing 472Securing the stitchingWhen sewing with the straight stitch, for example, at the end of an opening or where seams do not overlap, use reve

SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————487After 3 to 5 reverse stitches have been sewn, release (reverse/reinforceme

Sewing 492Cutting the threadWhen you have finished sewing, cut the threads.1When you wish to finish the stitching and the sewing machine is stopped

SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————50Adjusting the Thread TensionThe tensions of the upper thread and of the bobbi

251Adjusting the Stitch Width and LengthThe zigzag width (pattern width) and stitch length of utility stitches can be adjusted. Normally, when a stitc

SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————52Adjusting the stitch length1Press the stitch length adjustment button in the

Useful Sewing Tips 532Useful Sewing TipsVarious ways to achieve better results for your sewing projects are described below. Refer to these tips wh

———————————————————————————————————————— Names of Machine Parts and Their FunctionsCover EOperation panelThe operation panel, located on the front of

SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————54Sewing thick fabrics If the fabric does not fit under the presser footIf the

Useful Sewing Tips 552Sewing thin fabricsWhen sewing thin fabrics, the stitching may become misaligned or the fabric may not feed correctly. If thi

SEWING BASICS ————————————————————————————————————————————————————————56S2_brotherE.book Page 56 Thursday, February 13, 2003 11:03 AM

3 UTILITY STITCHESThe various stitches and their applications are described in this chapter.Selecting Stitching ...

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————58Selecting StitchingYou can select any of the various types of stitching ava

Selecting Stitching 5932To adjust the stitch width, slide the stitch width adjustment slider to the left or right.Press the stitch width adjustment

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————60Overcasting StitchesSew overcasting stitches along the edges of cut fabric

Overcasting Stitches 613Sewing overcasting stitches using zigzag foot “J”Three stitches can be used to sew overcasting stitches with zigzag foot “

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————62Sewing overcasting stitches using the optional side cutterUsing the side cu

Overcasting Stitches 6334Raise the presser foot lever to check that the side cutter is securely attached.5Pass the upper thread under the side cutt

1Optional AccessoriesThe following are available as optional accessories.1. Side cutterPart code: SA177, XC3879-0022. Quilting guidePart code: SA132,

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————64Basic StitchingStraight stitches are used for sewing plain seams. Three sti

Blind Hem Stitching 653Blind Hem StitchingSecure the bottoms of skirts and pants with a blind hem. Two stitches are available for blind hem stitchi

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————666Adjust the stitch width until the needle slightly catches the fold of the

Buttonhole Stitching 673Buttonhole StitchingButtonholes can be sewn and buttons can be sewn on. Five stitches are available for sewing one-step but

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————68Buttonhole sewingThe maximum buttonhole length is about 28 mm (1-1/8 inch)

Buttonhole Stitching 693 If the button does not fit in the button guide plateAdd together the diameter and thickness of the button, and then set t

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————708Raise the presser foot lever, remove the fabric, and cut the thread.9Raise

Buttonhole Stitching 713 Sewing buttonholes on stretch fabricsWhen sewing buttonholes on stretch fabrics, use a gimp thread.1Hook the gimp thread

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————724Place the button into button-sewing foot “M”.1 Button• When attaching four

Zipper Insertion 733Zipper InsertionA zipper can be sewn in place.There are many methods for inserting zippers. The procedures for inserting a cent

2IntroductionThank you for purchasing this sewing machine.Before using this sewing machine, carefully read the “Important Safety Instructions” (page 6

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————746Select stitch .• For details, refer to “ Selecting stitching” (page 58).

Zipper Insertion 7534Press the seam allowance so that the right side (the side that will not be stitched) has an extra 3 mm (1/8 inch).1 Wrong side

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————760Close the zipper, turn over the fabric, and then baste the other side of t

Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic Tape 773Sewing Stretch Fabrics and Elastic TapeStretch fabrics can be sewn and elastic tape can be attached.Obse

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————783Select stitch .• For details, refer to “ Selecting stitching” (page 58).

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 793Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt StitchingThe stitches that can be used for sewing appliqués, patchwork and

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————80Appliqué stitching1Cut out the appliqué, leaving a seam allowance of betwee

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 813Patchwork (crazy quilt) stitching1Fold the edge of the top piece of fabric and place it over the lower p

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————82Memo● To change the width of the seam allowance (the needle position), adju

Appliqué, Patchwork and Quilt Stitching 833 Using the optional quilting guideUse the quilting guide to sew parallel stitches that are equally spac

3ContentsEnclosed Accessories ... Cover AAccessories ...

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————844Slide the drop feed lever, located at the rear of the machine on the base,

Reinforcement Stitching 853Reinforcement StitchingReinforce points that will be subject to strain, such as sleeve holes, inseams and pocket corners

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————862Attach buttonhole foot “A”.• For details, refer to “ Replacing the presser

Eyelet Stitching 873Eyelet StitchingEyelets, such as those on belts, can be sewn. Three sizes of eyelets are possible: 7 mm, 6 mm and 5 mm (1/4, 15

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————88Decorative StitchingVarious decorative stitches can be sewn with this sewin

Decorative Stitching 893FagotingStitching across an open seam is called “ fagoting” . It is used on blouses and children's clothing. This stit

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————90Scallop stitchingThe wave-shaped repeating pattern that looks like shells i

Decorative Stitching 9135Select stitch or .• For details, refer to “ Selecting stitching” (page 58).6Stitch between the straight stitches.7Pull

UTILITY STITCHES ———————————————————————————————————————————————————————92Heirloom stitchingWhen sewing with the wing needle, the needle holes are en

Decorative Stitching 9332Attach monogramming foot “N”.• For details, refer to “ Replacing the presser foot” (page 35).3Select stitch .• For detai